Voyage: The Contemporary Oasis in Bloom
Spicing Up the Past: A Blend of Cultures at Yipu Garden in Taichung
By Big Dave Davey, your fun-loving cultural tour guide
In the outskirts of Taichung City, nestled in the heart of Wufeng District (霧峰去), lies a captivating assemblage of single-story buildings belonging to the illustrious Wufeng Lin (霧峰林家) family. Risen from humble beginnings in military, commercial, and artistic domains, the Lin family made their mark in the 19th century.
At first glance, most of these buildings seem to follow traditional Chinese architecture with brick walls and reddish-brown tiled roofs. However, one property defies expectations, its white walls and black tile roof, a striking contrast — Yipu Garden (頤圃).
The purists may shake their heads at the Japanese-styled exterior's radical departure from the antique Fujianese architectural motifs of the neighboring properties. But Yipu Garden offers a fascinating look into the challenges that Taiwanese faced during the Japanese era: adapt or be left behind.
Photo: Big Dave Davey
By the time construction was completed in 1914, the Qing Dynasty had crumbled, and Japanese rule had settled in Taiwan for almost two decades. Yipu Garden's designer, Lin Ji-tang (林紀堂), had his sights on the future. This does not mean his house was an exact replica of Japanese aesthetics, but it was a forward-thinking nod to the future.
The Japanese influence weaves its way through the property, cleverly masked amidst Chinese and Western inspirations, purposely making Yipu Garden a textbook example of cultural fusion. Let's take a stroll through this historical mix-tape.
To enter Yipu Garden, visitors pass through a winding wall and a gate that leads to one wing of the house instead of the central hall. This design was meant to symbolize a winding river flowing into the property, with money being captured by one long arm of the building — quite symbolic, considering the role the Lin family played as major landlords in their time. Farms would have historically entered by this gate to pay their rent.
THE TIGER WING
Photo: Big Dave Davey
The property brims with meaning and adherence to the principles of feng shui, with English signs providing decent explanations, even without a guided tour. The wing you face when entering represents the tiger, known for its aversion to loud noises but tolerance of strong smells. So, the kitchen and bathrooms find their home on this side.
The former accounting office in this wing has been converted into a cozy restaurant, Yipu Vegan. Take a moment to peer into the adjacent bathrooms — it houses toilets boasting white porcelain with Ming Dynasty-inspired blue decoration, quite appealing, if you appreciate artistry in your bathroom digs.
Moving through another door, you'll reach the inner courtyard, serving as your gateway to explore the home's interior. The configuration of Yipu Garden differs greatly from typical Fujian-style houses in Taiwan, but certain Japanese influences creep to the surface as you stroll through.
Photo: Big Dave Davey
Proceeding into the tiger wing on the left, you will see a Western-style kitchen and casual dining area, topped with the charm of a floral tile table. Further ahead lies the formal dining room, featuring a round table with a lazy Susan, a common sight in Taiwanese restaurants. The painting hanging above the table, though done by a local, exudes Western influences, as the artist was known to have studied abroad. The beautifully crafted stained glass windows also add a European touch.
The bedroom tells a story of a family constantly adapting to their ever-evolving life with a hidden escape room. Behind the cabinets next to the bed are secret doors leading to a secret chamber, complete with a trapdoor that leads to an underground bunker and escape tunnel. Lin Ji-tang built this room with anticipation, well-aware that life might throw unexpected challenges at him.
Photo: Big Dave Davey
THE DRAGON WING
In the Japanese era, an exotic animal zoo was located behind the central wing of Yipu Garden, a popular Japanese tourist destination. Nowadays, the zoo has disappeared, and the building that used to stand here was demolished after the 921 Earthquake.
The tour now continues in the dragon wing, opposite the tiger wing. Dragons, as legend tells, are fans of loud noise, so it was here that games and musical performances would take place.
A special room just for women is located at the back of this wing. The slender wooden chairs here were specifically designed with women in mind, and the mahjong table had drawers without handles that could be opened only with long fingernails — quite the privilege in those days! The Gothic style bay window once again adds a Western touch to the space.
The designer's son, Lin Ho-nen (林鶴年), studied music and theater in Japan, where he met his second wife, a Japanese woman. In an attempt to make her feel more at home, he built a traditional Japanese-style room, or tatami room, for her in the dragon wing. The two also performed together in the adjacent concert room, he on the piano and she — a trained opera singer in Europe — serenading audiences.
Photo: Big Dave Davey
The couple never had any children, and the property now belongs to one of Lin Ho-nen's second cousin's descendants, Lin Chen-ting (林振廷). His son, Hanss Lin (林帆亨), is a professional race car driver, and one room is now dedicated to his achievements and memorabilia.
In conclusion of the tour, you will find an outdoor display, not a race car but a Toyota Crown Royal Saloon sedan formerly owned by the Saudi ambassador to the Republic of China. After the countries severed diplomatic relations, the Lin family acquired the car and have maintained it in pristine condition to this day.
Photo: Big Dave Davey
GETTING THERE
Stay tuned for more cultural explorations with Big Dave!
Visiting Yipu Vegan in the Tiger Wing offers a taste of the Lin family's somewhat eclectic lifestyle, blending Chinese, Western, and Japanese influences.The display of the Saudi ambassador's Toyota Crown Royal Saloon sedan outside Yipu Garden showcases the property's intriguing links to travel and international relations.The unique fusion of architectural styles within Yipu Garden provides a captivating look into the lifestyle evolution of the Lin family during the Japanese era, reflecting their willingness to adapt and embrace change.
