Uncovering Hidden Treasures: Dauin's Top-Tier Luxury Muck Diving
Nirupam Nigam explores the unparalleled biodiversity of Dauin in the Philippines, during Bluewater Travel's Underwater Photography Workshop at Atmosphere Resort & Spa
Nirupam's Underwater Camera Gear: Marelux Z8 housing with a Nikon Z8 camera, dual Sea & Sea YS-D3 Duo strobes, and a Marelux SOFT Pro Snoot
Travel Account: Dumaguete Excursion 2024
Imagine spending your days observing a sloping expanse of coarse black volcanic sand, poring over coral rubble in search of mini appliance-store aliens, all while being almost invisible to the naked eye. Sounds like a pipe dream? Not if you're a dedicated muck diving enthusiast, and Dumaguete is a hidden treasure trove for this niche hobby.
In 2024, 23 intrepid travelers from Bluewater hit the scene at the luxurious Atmosphere Resort & Spa, with one mission in mind: to delve into the extraordinary biodiversity of the Philippines.
Craving a diving adventure in the Philippines? Check out our list of the Best Diving in the Philippines!
Opulence Redefined
Atmosphere Resort & Spa is nestled in the Philippines' Central Visayas region, clutching the northern edge of the coral triangle. Getting there might not be the most straightforward journey from North America, but it's certainly not the most challenging. The most common route involves a flight to Manila and then a brief domestic flight to Dumaguete. Once you arrive, Atmosphere is just a short 40-minute drive from the small town of Dauin.
A panoramic view of the expansive Atmosphere Resort grounds
Arrival at Atmosphere ushers in a whole new meaning of luxury. Attentive staff whisk you and your belongings to generously-sized, modern villas complete with air-conditioning, an outdoor stone shower, and private terrace. The resort's grounds are extensive, boasting lush gardens, multiple pools, two gourmet restaurants, and a pristine beach that would make any catalog proud. You'll be greeted with a welcome drink and a massage voucher upon check-in, and you can dive right in for a check-out dive on one of the world's top house reefs.
Two of our dive boats docked and ready to go
The Bluewater Experience
The Bluewater workshop experience was a sight to behold, with a camera room offering individual stalls for each participant, complete with multiple power outlets. The dive shop turned semblance of an outdoor lounge was a hub of activity, equipped with everything you could ever need for the perfect dive, from free Nitrox to multiple camera cleaning stations to personal dive gear sections. We spent our initial days putting together our equipment, troubleshooting first-day equipment mishaps, and preparing for the photo workshops led by Nirupam Nigam (me!) and video workshops led by the esteemed Paul Fierst.
Andrew McCain, all smiles during a successful dive on Apo Island
Despite the temptation of a massage or a drink by the pool, the dedicated photographers in our group met daily to discuss everything from creative macro photography to video editing to sea turtle photography. With daily image reviews and Lightroom editing sessions, students had the chance to push the boundaries of their creative potential. The collaborative environment was the perfect catalyst for learning, and I myself learned a thing or two!
Macro Mania - Discover Macro Heaven in Anilao
Day 1: Dive into Muck Masaplod North, Marina Point, and Atmosphere North
After a hearty breakfast of fresh fruit, cold cuts, and eggs, we boarded our outrigger dive vessel with enthusiasm. We were whisked to Masaplod North, where the allure of Dauin's diving unfolded before our eyes: beautiful black volcanic sand, home to myriad tiny critters lurking among small heads of coral and sponges. The first animal we encountered upon our descent was a bright yellow frogfish - the unofficial mascot of Dumaguete! The rest of the dive was a treasure trove of marine mysteries, from multiple frogfish species to nudibranchs and anemone fish.
A Coleman shrimpseen for the first time on a memorable dive at Marina Point
Our second dive at Marina Point was the star of the day: a Coleman shrimp encounter! These elusive creatures live on the backs of colorful fire urchins, and we were blessed to see not just classic pairs, but also juvenile shrimp clinging to the adults in troops. The whole family was there!
After returning to Atmosphere for a sumptuous lunch,we wrapped up our day near the resort, spotting lazy banded sea kraits, vibrant rainbow mantis shrimp, and agile juvenile sweetlips.
An evening massage and a three-course gourmet meal were the perfect ending to a remarkable first day of diving. The food at Atmosphere was truly unparalleled, worthy of every international traveler's palate.
Day 2: Apo Island (South Rock East, Chapel, and Baluarte)
Dive day two promised more adventures, as we ventured to Apo Island, renowned as one of the world's healthiest coral reefs, bustling with turtles unbothered by the presence of divers. We jumped in for a full day of three back-to-back dives, eager to experience its coral reefs and marine life in all their glory.
A curious crinoid captured with an innovative black background by Eckehardt Von Damm
Our first dive at Apo's calmer south side presented us with towering stands of healthy elkhorn, table, and lettuce coral, as well as our first turtle encounter. As we floated along the reef, more turtles began to appear, until we were surrounded by no less than 15 turtles during our second dive! Other highlights included a lucky pair of harlequin shrimp and multiple giant frogfish, adorned in a rainbow of colors.
Stunning anthias adorn the reefs of Apo Island
Day 3: More Muck! (Guinsuan North, Basak South)
The muck diving fanatics in our group demanded more of Dauin's famous sandy slopes and artificial reefs. The third day dawned with another underwater lesson in creative macro photography, where some braved using steel wool to create intriguing bokeh effects. We were initially frustrated, but a well-positioned wire coral shrimp provided the ideal test subject for our experiment.
A schools of colored gobies hiding in clam shells
The day was filled with orange gobies hiding in clam shells and artfully-decorated tire reefs, as well as multiple juvenile frogfish, mimic octopus, a colorful seahorse, and a leafy scorpionfish.
Day 4: Muck Madness Returns (Secret Corner, San Miguel)
Our fourth full day of muck diving promised to rival the best that Dauin had to offer. Greeted by a calm, gray morning, the ocean was as tranquil as a sleeping giant. Our first dive treated us to an anemone-covered with 3 species of shrimp, followed by a flamboyant cuttlefish displaying a vibrant hunting dance. We even encountered another warty frogfish just a couple of feet away!
A flamboyant cuttlefish on the hunt displayed a mesmerizing show for photographers
Our third dive brought more surprises, including a Shaun the Sheep nudibranch, emperor shrimp, schooling catfish, and the usual suspects.
Day 5: Apo Island Drift Diving (Cogon, Coconut, Katipanan)
After satiating our appetites for microscopic critters, we ventured back to Apo Island's renowned reef diving for sportier drift dives on the north side. Our first two dives, Cogon and Coconut, were action-packed, with swift, sometimes unpredictable currents, but the vibrant reefscapes and swarms of anthias made it well worth the effort.
A green turtle basking under an overhang
To wrap up our day, we floated gently among shallow reefs in front of a small village, where we encountered dozens of apathetic green sea turtles, allowing us to approach as close as we desired for underwater photographs.
Day 6: Dauin Adventures and a Grand Finale
On our final full day, we chose to explore various corners of Negros Island, from birdwatching to visiting waterfalls and lakes. Some went to encounter the whale sharks of Oslob, while the muck maniacs opted for one last muck dive. Our final dive on a tire reef yielded more Shaun the Sheep nudibranchs, emperor shrimp, and schooling catfish, among other delights.
The ubiquitous Shaun the Sheep nudibranch, a common sight in Dauin's muck diving sites
To celebrate our grand finale, we gathered to choose the winners of the Dumaguete Photo Contest, with a captivating portrait of a ribbon eel by Guillermo Viveros claiming the grand prize. More stories, laughter, and memories filled the night as we celebrated our shared underwater adventures.
Discover the Allure of Dumaguete
Join our Next Adventures!
Mark your calendars for two upcoming opportunities with Bluewater:
- Ultimate Luxury Philippine Resort Group Trip in 2025
- Ultimate Luxury Philippine Resort Group Trip in 2026
Start planning your tropical dive adventure with our recommendations for the essential gear to pack:
- Dive light or torch for night dives: We recommend the Kraken NR-2000 Dive Light
- 5mm wetsuit or a 7mm: Browse our recommendations for wetsuits at Bluewater Photo
- Hood or hooded vest: Check out our scuba hoods
- Travel BCD: Read our Best Travel BCD Article
- Travel regulator: We suggest the Mares Ultra 62X Dive Regulator
Sources and Further Reading
- Atmosphere Resort & Spa
- Muck Diving
- AivyMaes Divers
- Scuba Diving Tips: A Guide to Muck Diving
- Digital Underwater Photography
- The sloping black volcanic sand and coral rubble of Dauin, Philippines, are home to a multitude of miniature creatures, making it a dreamland for muck diving enthusiasts.
- In 2024, Bluewater Travel organized an underwater photography workshop at the luxurious Atmosphere Resort & Spa in Dumaguete, where 23 travelers came together for a diving adventure in the extraordinary biodiversity of the Philippines.
- Atmosphere Resort & Spa, located in the Central Visayas region, offers extensive lush gardens, multiple pools, gourmet restaurants, and a pristine beach, all while boasting a home-and-garden-inspired lifestyle.
- During the Bluewater workshop, participants had access to a camera room with individual stalls, multiple power outlets, and a dive shop turned semblance of an outdoor lounge, equipped with everything needed for the perfect dive.
- On the first dive of day 1, the group encountered a bright yellow frogfish, the unofficial mascot of Dumaguete, kicking off a treasure trove of marine mysteries.
- Despite the occasional drift dives on Apo Island's north side, the group was greeted by unbothered green sea turtles during their final dive, allowing for close-up underwater photographs as a fitting grand finale to their diving adventure.
