Thru-Hikers Return to Appalachian Trail Towns, Under New Guidelines
Each summer, trail towns along the Upper Connecticut River Valley, including Hanover, NH, and Lebanon, VT, eagerly welcome an influx of Appalachian Trail (A.T.) thru-hikers. Despite the COVID-19 shutdown in 2020, businesses in these towns are optimistic about a bountiful season in 2021.
When the largest wave of A.T. thru-hikers hits downtown Hanover, their agenda will be filled with the necessities of civilization - a shower, clean clothes, sustenance beyond dried food, and a comfortable bed if their budget allows. Most years, hikers can find what they need here, even given their enormous appetites and strained budgets that stretch six months and 2,200 miles.
At Lou's Restaurant & Bakery, a thru-hiker might receive a complimentary doughnut. Ramunto's extends a free slice of pizza. Dan & Whit's General Store offers hikers a complimentary day-old sandwich and a trail angels contact list - locals who generously open their homes to hikers at no cost. Near Howe Library's entrance, a box collects donations from locals for hikers - ranging from dried food to camping gear.
The global pandemic halted much of this hiker hospitality in Hanover and trail towns along the A.T., due in part to state lockdowns and the Appalachian Trail Conservancy's (ATC) closure of the trail to thru-hikers, causing many to abandon their journey. However, with widespread vaccine availability and the relaxation of most business restrictions, trail towns are gearing up for a more normal 2021 - albeit with a few notable changes for both hikers and communities.
Jayne Trailer, marketing manager for Hanover Adventure Tours Hostel in Norwich, VT, predicts a triple increase in A.T. thru-hikers in 2021.
The ATC, which has managed and conserved the A.T. since 1925, lifted restrictions on thru-hiking set more than a year earlier, marking the start of the season for many hikers. As of mid-June, 3,863 thru-hikers had notified the ATC of their intentions to hike the A.T. in 2021, surpassing the numbers in 2019 and 2018. Matthew "Odie" Norman, creator of The Hiker Yearbook, estimates an even higher count, given several favorite businesses along the trail have shut their doors, such as the Little Red Hen Diner & Bakery in Andover, ME, and the Greasy Creek Friendly in Bakersville, NC.
Despite these closures, Norman has encountered "a thousand hikers" by early June, with approximately 90% reporting their vaccination status, thanks to chain pharmacies like CVS and Walgreens offering their services at different locations. Some hikers embarked earlier in February to avoid overcrowding, while some have opted to complete the hike in sections rather than attempting it in one go. Many thru-hikers are simply resuming their journey from where they left the trail at the beginning of the pandemic in 2020.
"I think numbers will triple, honestly," says Jayne Trailer, marketing manager at the Hanover Adventure Tours Hostel in Norwich, VT. "So many people left and didn't finish last year. We may see more section hikers trying to complete, but overall, I think people in our society are leaning more toward the outdoors nowadays. The A.T. might be their answer."
Most A.T. communities, such as Dalton, MA, are gradually reopening to welcome the expected flood of hikers. Andrea Lassor, co-chair of the Dalton A.T. Committee, reports that all restaurants are open, and the Dalton Community Recreation Association is again providing free showers for A.T. hikers.
Some traditions will persist, like the availability of gear outfitters, such as those at AMC's Pinkham Notch Visitor Center, or the placement of "trail magic" - coolers filled with snacks and beverages at trailheads by locals. Businesses continue to welcome hikers, offering them free goods or services.
"You can hike the trail without trail magic and other freebies," notes Matthew "Odie" Norman, but these amenities add to the appeal of the journey for many hikers, enabling them to complete it. Ultimately, the communities reap the benefits from hikers just as much as the hikers do.
"They literally quit their jobs to go on this journey," says Jayne Trailer, "They might be dealing with things in their lives, or they're trying to pivot toward something else. The A.T. helps them do that."
Norwich, VT, resident Betsy Maislen, who has been housing and feeding thru-hikers in her home since her son's 2007 thru-hike recovery with trail angels, has maintained relationships with numerous former thru-hikers, some of whom have invited her to significant life events and gatherings.
Dan Fraser, owner of Norwich's Dan & Whit's, observes that the hikers remind locals there are people in the world beyond their immediate community, people with diverse backgrounds and experiences. Helping them out feels good, he notes.
"It's proof there are nice people in the world who do nice things," Fraser says, "It's reassuring for everybody - both for us and them."
While the summer and fall seasons will still welcome thousands of A.T. thru-hikers, some traditions may differ or be unavailable this year. Some businesses in Hanover have already closed permanently, such as the Skinny Pancake and Salt Hill Pub. A few individuals, trail angels, and community institutions may wait before reopening to out-of-town hikers. The Richard W. Black Community Center, which historically provided shower and laundry facilities for hikers, is not yet ready for visitors, and many trail angels who welcomed hikers to their homes are hesitant due to the risk posed by COVID-19.
Businesses like hostels will implement changes to meet the increased demand while maintaining safety. The Notch Hostel in North Woodstock, NH, for instance, now offers more private rooms and outdoor tent sites. At the Hanover Adventure Tours Hostel, dining takes place outdoors under a tent.
"We want to ensure everyone feels safe," Trailer says, "Because it's been a scary year." Cheshire, MA, recently opened the Father Tom Campsite, featuring amenities specifically geared toward hikers, such as a water spicket, portable toilet, trash barrel, electric outlets, and bike rentals. The site is named after Rev. Thomas Begley, who welcomed hikers at the St. Mary of the Assumption Church in the 1980s.
This summer and fall will present opportunities for Appalachian Trail towns to renew and strengthen their hiker hospitality, embracing the spirit of community while ensuring everyone's safety.
- As the A.T. thru-hiker season commences in 2021, some might find alternative modes of travel and adventure, such as exploring scenic bicycle paths alongside the Upper Connecticut River Valley, captivated by the picturesque landscapes and the unique lifestyle of these trail towns.
- While reconnecting with the outdoors and embarking on their journey, many hikers will be keen to engage in local sports events or facilities, offering a chance to mingle with residents, share experiences, and celebrate the common passion for sports, fostering camaraderie among hikers and townspeople alike.