Navigating Through Indonesia's Archipelago: A Narrative Spanning Time and Island Territories
In the heart of Indonesia's Flores Sea, a unique sailing trip unfolds aboard the traditional phinisi boats, Silolona and Si Datu Bua.
The voyage begins with a sunrise view of Mount Ile Lewotolok, one of more than 120 active volcanoes in the Pacific's 'ring of fire'. The Silolona, named after a Tanimbar island legend, and the slightly smaller Si Datu Bua, built in 2012 under the watchful eye of Patti Seery's son, Tresno, glide through the indigo expanse of the islands.
The crew, locals from the region, guide guests through a rich tapestry of experiences. From diving and snorkeling, where turtles, sharks, blue whales, dolphins, rays, and a multitude of fish, including flying fish, can be spotted, to tours in Flores that include harvests of coconuts, nutmeg, and morinda tree roots.
A highlight of the trip is a visit to a remote village, where a ceremonial dance is observed. A framed picture of Patti, dressed in ikat and blessed as one of their ancestors, takes centre stage. All participants join in the dancing, which feels genuine, joyous, and welcoming. Traditional dances such as a pre-marriage dance and a warrior dance, involving the felling of a banana tree and the use of a bow and arrow, add to the cultural immersion.
The market on Alor offers a vibrant display of spices, fruits, vegetables, and fish, including a large tuna. Fruit bats can be seen in large numbers in a shallow mangrove area.
Music adds another layer to the journey. A fusion of Balinese and Javanese gamelan music and Pacific island folk music is played during a celebratory event. Some women's sarongs feature a gecko motif, symbolizing protection and success.
Tresno describes the crew as being like family. This sense of camaraderie is evident in the abandoned dive center on the eastern coast of Flores, where Goris, another crew member, learnt to dive.
The boats, considered the finest phinisi on these waters, offer a glimpse into the region's rich history and culture. The ikat technique, which utilizes blue and red hues, has been carried out in Flores for thousands of years. The boats were built by hand by Konjo boat builders in Ara, Sulawesi.
The journey concludes on a desert island, transformed into a lantern-lit beach barbecue for a feast of freshly grilled fish. It's a fitting end to a trip that's as much about the people and the culture as it is about the sea and the islands.
This sailing trip offers a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in the rich culture and natural beauty of Indonesia's Flores Sea.
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