Journey through Iceland's Northeastern Regions: Scenic Exploration Awaits
Húsavík, christened the "Harbor of Houses," nestles as a bucolic coastal town in the far northern reaches of Iceland, accessible via a brief flight or a lengthy road trip from Reykjavik. Situated approximately nine hours by road from Reykjavik and a mere hour's drive from Akureyri, this picturesque town serves as a convenient base for day trips to many of Iceland's major attractions and marks the commencement of the popular Diamond Circle route.
Legend recounts that the first home constructed in Iceland belonged to Swedish Viking Garðar Svavarsson in 860 A.D., and Húsavík uniquely straddles the waters of history and modernity. The town is famed for its prolific whale populations and is an attractive destination for whale watching enthusiasts. The likelihood of witnessing a diverse array of whale species, including blue whales, fin whales, and humpback whales, notably increases in this area compared to the southern part of Iceland.
In a pursuit of an effortless travel experience, this writer chose a local airline, Eagle Air, and the renowned hotel chain, Fosshótel, which offered an appealing deal at their branch in Húsavík. The flight duration clocked in at a brisk 50 minutes, rendering Húsavík mere stone's throw from Reykjavik and making it an excellent option for a fitting weekend getaway. Fellowing me on this venture were my seven-year-old daughter and my partner, met with a palpable sense of adventure as we boarded the navy-blue Jetstream 32, a compact twin-turboprop plane stationed at Reykjavik's domestic airport next to Nautholsvík.
Upon landing in Húsavík, our friendly local guide, Gunnar Johannesson, the managing director of Travel North, greeted us and offered some insights into the town. The airport is situated in a lava field roughly a ten-minute drive from the town center. In the town's vivacious harbor, we spotted whale watching boats and the delightful church built in 1907. Húsavík preserves several characteristic wooden and corrugated iron houses, adding to its appeal and the breathtaking scenic beauty offered by the surrounding snow-capped mountains and the North Atlantic ocean.
A short walk from the harbor led us to Fosshótel Húsavík, a modern, well-appointed hotel that accommodates conferences and events of any kind. It commands the largest conference facility in the entire northern region of Iceland and provides an airy, elegant atmosphere that is simultaneously family-friendly. The rooms were stylish and possess cutting-edge amenities, such as refrigerators, safes, and coffee and tea makers. My daughter reveled in her cozy double bed with a private television in our adjoining room.
The hotel's restaurant is christened Moby Dick, appositely so as humpback whales, along with other whale species, inhabit this area abundantly. Following a stroll around the harbor and a glance into the local microbrewery within close proximity, which crafts Húsavík öl, we savored a leisurely dinner at the refined Moby Dick eatery. Offering a casual menu that featured items like fire-oven pizzas, hamburgers, and fish and chips, among others, the service showcased friendliness. A special children's menu, complete with nutritious alternatives and a whale coloring book and crayons, catered to my daughter's needs. The subsequent night concluded with an early bedtime, as a Saturday brimming with exciting activities awaited us.
After indulging in a sumptuous buffet breakfast, we set course for the harbor to embark on a Gentle Giants whale-watching expedition. The weather was resplendent, offering clear skies and a calm ocean, albeit with formidable waves further out in Skjálfandi Bay. To forestall seasickness, we donned waterproof suits and bravely boarded the boat, a charming oak fishing vessel smaller than the large whale-watching boats found in Reykjavik.
As the boat rocked on the waves, our German-speaking guide drew our attention to a school of dolphins leaping out of the water. Capsizing all expectations, moments later, the guide indicated a reddish-brown, expansive fin whale back breaching the water's surface, emitting jets of water into the air. We trailed the fin whale for a brief while and then spotted two of them swimming together. Gargantuan fin whales, the species' second-largest member, can extend up to a staggering 21 meters in length. In what was a poignant reminder, these whales remain hunted in restricted numbers by a whaling company stationed in Reykjavik harbor. Icelandic whale-watching organizations have emphatically expressed disagreement with these whaling policies, advocate responsible whale-watching, and aim to engender a deeper appreciation for these meandering sea giants.
Approximately an hour into our adventure, our guide identified three columns of water emerging from the ocean's surface. As we neared the horizon, we observed humpback whales bobbing up from the water. Their dappled gray backs shone in the sunlight, and their black and white tails provided a stunning contrast against the ocean. My daughter's eyes teared up in awe as the mighty marine mammals swam even closer to our boat. Whales now ranked atop her list of favorite animals, a moniker she bestowed with a joyful smile.
We managed to follow the three humpback whales for quite some distance, encapsulating an experience that humbled us. Eyewitnessing these magnificent creatures pursuing their prey in their natural habitat stirred a profound connection. Despite the exhilaration or the bracing air, no signs of seasickness surfaced, and we gamely sipped hot cocoa and Icelandic "kleinur," a doughnut-style pastry, as our boat returned to the Húsavík harbor.
Following a quick lunchtime snack at the harbor following our enthralling morning, we hopped in a local cab for a short ride to the breath-taking Geosea, situated along the Húsavík coastline. This attraction possesses a compelling backstory—for centuries, geothermal heat has been harnessed in the region for bathing and laundry purposes. In the mid-20th century, workers drilling for hot water unearthed water that contained an unusually high concentration of minerals and proved unsuitable for residential heating. To prevent waste, a fish barrel was installed on the site, offering locals the opportunity to enjoy bathing in this mineral-rich seawater. Last year, the Geosea project culminated with the establishment of infinity pools in a contemporary building perched on the cliffs' edge. No cleaning agents are employed, for the water circulates naturally from the drill holes and cascades off the pools' edges back into the sea.
A visit to Geosea proved nothing short of unforgettable. The water was pleasantly warm and welcoming, with steam billowing against the backdrop of the sky and mountains. As one relaxed within the pool, one could appreciate the striking coastal panorama. It was easy to while away the afternoon at this idyllic location, with soft sunlight filtering through the clouds and locals enjoying locally brewed Húsavík beer or fresh fruit juice from the pool bar. The experience left an indelible impression on visitors of all ages.
Satiated and rejuvenated after our soak at Geosea, we sauntered back to the hotel, a 15-minute stroll providing picturesque vistas of the coastline. Our appetites rekindled by the swim, we arranged a two-course meal at the hotel restaurant. The à la carte menu featured innovative spins on traditional Icelandic fare, such as lamb, beef, and fish, and we dined on delightful lobster chowder, followed by tender lamb and Arctic char, while our daughter feasted on a burger and ultimately, chocolate cake.
On Sunday, we relished a leisurely hotel breakfast, complete with bacon, eggs, waffles, and fresh fruit, before journeying to the Exploration Museum, an intriguing project founded by entrepreneur and former journalist Örlygur Hnefill Örlygsson. Located in a historic homestead in the town's center, the museum is dedicated to human exploration of the world and outer space. Its primary exhibition room showcases photographs and artifacts from Apollo Astronaut training near Húsavík in 1965 and 1967. The second room delves into the history of Viking exploration, while the upper floor reaches into the exploration of the polar regions. The museum's basement displays details about expeditions under the sea and into subterranean caves, offering enlightening experiences for visitors of all ages.
In the afternoon, we headed back to Húsavík airport to resume our journey to Reykjavik, concluding our unforgettable family weekend in this enchanting town.
In the midst of our adventure-travel escapades, we found ourselves immersed in the geothermal wonders of Geosea, a captivating attraction along Húsavík's coastline. This idyllic spot offers a unique blend of nature and lifestyle, as its infinity pools are infused with mineral-rich seawater, providing a hot and rejuvenating soak with breathtaking scenic views.
On the second day of our trip, we delved into the realm of education and exploration at the Exploration Museum. Founded by Örlygur Hnefill Örlygsson, this museum showcases the history of human exploration of the world, space, the polar regions, and even expeditions under the sea and into subterranean caves, offering enlightening experiences for all ages.
Our weekend retreat was not just about whale-watching and geothermal baths, but also about appreciating the cultural and historical aspects of this remarkable town. Húsavík stands as a vibrant blend of tradition and modernity, a testament to the rich heritage of the old Viking settlement and its embracing of the conveniences of contemporary lifestyle.
