Archaeological Discovery Unearths Cremation Rituals in Borneo, Involving Skulls and Pigs
In the heart of Borneo, nestled off the tourist trail, lies a traditional Dayak longhouse in Kalimantan, Indonesia. This communal dwelling, built on stilts and housing immediate families on one side and a communal area on the other, is a testament to the rich cultural traditions of the Dayak people.
Recently, a traveler and their friend had the privilege of visiting this longhouse, partaking in its nightly ceremonies that are deeply rooted in Dayak beliefs and practices. The traveler, who has backpacked through over 50 countries and is currently writing a novel about their adventures, felt a sense of anxious excitement about participating in a Dayak death ritual.
The longboat ride to the longhouse took sixteen hours along the Sungai Mahakam river, but the journey was worth it. Upon arrival, eight human skulls and three coconuts with drawn-on faces were present during the ceremonies. A man wearing the head-dress impaled a chicken, a tarpaulin-wrapped bundle, and a spear, while the longhouse inhabitants gathered to witness the ritual. It is important to note that the animals were not for consumption but were offerings to the spirits.
The traveler and their friend spent the night at Larry's bungalow next to the longhouse. Larry, the guide, declined payment for his hospitality, confirming the authenticity of the traditions and ceremonies they had witnessed.
The ceremonies included communal dancing, drumming, and chanting, which are integral parts of Dayak cultural practices during certain traditional festivals and rituals, such as the Gawai Dayak festival. This harvest festival, celebrated in Sarawak, Malaysia, involves various rituals, offerings, and communal meals in the longhouse gallery, including spirit-welcoming processions and traditional chants to honor ancestors and spirits.
However, it's essential to clarify that the specific term for the dance "for the dead" inside a longhouse in Borneo is not explicitly named in the provided sources. Nevertheless, the Gawai Dayak festival itself represents a sacred time when the community interacts spiritually with their ancestors, often accompanied by traditional music and dances.
Inside the longhouse, a large box decorated with glittery paper cut-outs and "god's eyes" hangs from the ceiling of the communal area, containing the remains of a recently deceased family member. The Dayak community practices twenty-one days of celebrations after a death, during which the dance for the dead is a significant part of the rituals.
An elderly woman was observed howling into a karaoke machine and beating her breast in lament, but her anguish was largely theatrical, adding to the emotional intensity of the ceremonies. Despite the solemn nature of the occasion, the traveler found their time with the Dayak to be a more-than-quintessential experience, overshadowing anything they had expected to find while backpacking in Indonesia.
Sue Bedford, the author, can be found on Twitter at @SBedford86, continuing to share her adventures and experiences with the world.
The traveler and their friend, who had witnessed countless cultural diversities during their backpacking journey, found the Dayak death rituals in the longhouse a unique addition to their lifestyle of exploring different traditions. The longboat journey along the Sungai Mahakam river, leading them to this traditional Dayak longhouse in Borneo, was an unforgettable travel experience that exceeded their expectations in Indonesia.