A forgotten tropical haven named Culion remains neglected and underappreciated
In the western part of the Philippine island state, around 350 kilometers southwest of the capital Manila, lies the unique island of Culion. This island, unlike any other, serves as an antidote to overtourism, offering a peaceful retreat for those seeking adventure and a glimpse into history.
Culion is home to a coastal village named Butnongan, where fisherman Wilbert V. Pantoja stays behind a bamboo platform during weather warnings, using his phone to surf the internet. The island, however, is devoid of resorts, few visitors, no car rentals or public buses, making it a haven for those with adventurous spirits.
Culion has a dark history as the world's largest organized leper colony in the past. In 1902, the US colonial power prepared to build a leper colony on Culion, resettling the original inhabitants. The first patients arrived on Culion in 1906, and infected people from all over the country were deported there for medical care. Leprosy has been defeated on the island, and the colony has been a normal community since the mid-1990s. The museum and archive on Culion are part of UNESCO's World Documentary Heritage due to its historical significance.
Tour guide Hermie Villanueva, also known as "Pastor", shows visitors all the hidden corners of the island on his moped. He takes tourists to Cemetery Beach at high tide and knows the way to the hidden Butnongan waterfall with a natural turquoise pool. Villanueva also visits secluded beaches, such as Serenity Beach and Nabayuan Beach, with the owner's permission. These beaches would typically be covered with luxury resorts in other parts of the world.
Culion is known for its hills, bays, fishing villages, waterfalls, and almost deserted beaches. The residents of Culion primarily make a living through fishing, some agriculture, small shops, office work, tricycle taxis, and have irregular incomes. Museum director John Lisboa's grandparents worked in the colony's administration. The person who took on the role of museum director in Culion and experienced the incidents on the island during its time as a leprosy colony was Dr. Josephine Achacoso.
In the record year of 1935, 7,000 sick people lived on Culion. Today, the island has transformed, offering a unique experience for tourists who appreciate its history and peaceful atmosphere. Janette and Simon Lavers have established a homestay in the main town of Culion, catering to tourists who seek this very experience.
Visitors will find that one euro is equivalent to around 65 Philippine Pesos in Culion. Ferries to Culion depart regularly from the city of Coron, with a travel time of about 50 minutes. A passport and a visa are required for travel to Culion, and are issued free of charge upon entry with a valid return or onward flight ticket and are valid for 30 days.
Exploring Culion is an opportunity to step back in time, immerse yourself in history, and appreciate the resilience of a community that has overcome adversity. It's a journey that will leave you with a profound sense of awe and a deep appreciation for the beauty and strength of the human spirit.
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